You should only need a small radiator in a well insulated basement.
If the room is 100% underground, there is much less heat loss.
The planners can provide you with a U value that is required,
such as the current 0.2 W/m2k U-value.
SuperFOIL can provide a very thin foil based insulation
that can achieve the desired U value without the bulky loss
of space you normally associate with wall insulation.
Placed between 2 battens for example, the foil insulation
can expand to fill the gap between the P8 covered outer walls
and the foil backed plasterboards.
The multiple layers of foil prevent the transfer of
cold from outside getting in and the heat from the inside
getting out, with the minimum amount of space used.
Unfilled cavity wall (pre to 1900) have a U-value of 2.0 W/m2k
Unfilled cavity wall (1900 – 1975) have a U-value of 1.6 W/m2k
Unfilled cavity wall (1976 – 1982) have a U-value of 1.0 W/m2k
Unfilled cavity wall (1983 – 1995) have a U-value of 0.6 W/m2k
Filled cavity wall (1996 – 2002) have a U-value of 0.45 W/m2k
Filled cavity wall (2003 – 2006) have a U-value of 0.35 W/m2k
Filled cavity wall (2006 – 2010) have a U-value of 0.3 W/m2k
Filled cavity wall (2010 - 2020+) have a U-value of 0.2 W/m2k
The block steps are there to provide support for the cellar walls.
They are a block of weight to prevent the walls from moving sideways.
The fronts are usually bricks laid on the floor, not sunk into the floor
and they are usually back filled with loose rubble.
We remove the big old, bulky, loose rubble & brick steps &
replace them with reinforced concrete pins only 6 inches wide
which are sunk into the floor unlike the old steps.
We then pour the concrete slab to fix the new pins into position.
The new thin support is much smaller but much stronger.
It cannot be moved as it is now part of the concrete pad.
The spandrel forms an air tight cover for the basement staircase,
preventing light or fresh air to enter the basement.
Now that your basement is going to be fresh and inviting,
you may want to open up the staircase.
You can add spindels in a traditional house
or go for a glass feature in a modern house.
We remove the spandrel and repair the surrounding area.
We can either fit a newel post, handrails and spindles
or an oak and glass stairwell for example.
Whilst a screen floor is being laid over the insulation,
we could install a loop of 15mm pipes ready
to be used for underfloor heating in the future.
It would be too late to install the pipes needed for the
underfloor heating after the floor has been laid.
It does allow for the option of underfloor heating
to be used later if you want.
You will need the pipes to be buried in screed.
You would need a plumber to install a manifold and pump,
which could be powered from a local radiator.
All basements should have a solid concrete pad
with an imprint of a drainage system on it.
The sump is the lowest point, followed by the drains.
Over the pad, you should use a 20mm drainage membrane
which allows a head water to be dealt with by the pumps.
Now you have a choice, but each layer adds a cost;
- 22mm floating tongue & grove chip boards,
- 50mm foil backed, closed cell, tape joined insulation,
- 70mm self levelling thermal screed
in which you can fit 15mm underfloor heating pipes
- a latex based floor leveller, ready for a great tiling finish.
note that the pipes need to be fixed to the foil backed insulation
so both the insulation and screed at 120mm or 5 inches are required,
which with the 20mm membrane, will lift the floor by 6 inches.
The basement pump cannot be used for frequent waste.
Waste water contains soaps, bleaches and effluent,
which can damage the membrane seals.
A separate plumbing system must be used.
Saniflo systems are specifically designed
to remove waste water from difficult areas;
pumping up to heights and lengths required for basements.
We recommend the Saniflo Sanicubic 1
You will need 2 x 50mm pipes to exit the building,
1 50mm pipe for waste to be connected to the foul drain &
1 50mm pipe for foul air, to be mounted in the air.
The Sanicubic can cope with washing machines, sinks and toilets,
which makes it ideal for a basement utility space.
A finished plaster wall is not 100% perfect.
When the plaster dries, it will become dusty.
There will be some areas that will need to be filled or sanded.
You shouldn't paint dusty walls.
Painting will highlight those small blemishes that need filling.
We can wash, sand down and fill your new plastered walls
to a white wash finish so you can decorate in confidence.
White will be the perfect base for any future colour.
White makes it easy to spot any problem areas,
which we will repair so you can decorate quickly.
You may need planning permission before installing a light well, or
if you want to expand an existing window or light well.
We can complete the planning request for you.
We will need to produce drawings and location maps for you.
We can then install the lintels and window that tie into your basement.
The base of the light well should be a small soak away.
There are insurance rules and declarations to consider as well, as
the wrong window can cause you problems with your insurance later.
Now that you can store things in your basement
without them going wet, doesn't mean you want to see them.
We can also cover up some unwanted features
like the consumer unit, gas meter or incoming electricity supply.
using bespoke cupboards to form a flat surface.
We usually use 3x2 frames and MDF for the doors,
which can be replaced for glossy doors later,
now you have the bespoke door sizes you need.
You may want to push the washer & dryer downstairs.
It would be useful the have a sink, toilet and a shower too.
You are going to need air extraction &
I would also strongly suggest a drainage system.
There may not be anything as bad as a utility flood, in a basement,
especially on a wooden floor.
For utility areas, with washers, toilets and sinks,
we suggest a tiled floor with a drainage point, like a wet room.
You don't have to worry about any floods that may occur
as you will have a utility drain you can use.
Council's don't like you to add new water
to an already overloaded drainage system.
Clean water from the ground or rain can be
sent to a soak away in your garden or drive.
Building regulations may state the requirement
of a soak away to be installed.
A soak away can become a strategic asset for your property,
future proofing you from future planning permission applications.
We suggest a 2 meter squared hole with either round stones or
a soak away crate can be used, 2x (600mmx600mmx690mm) crates,
covered in a porous sheet, buried in the stones will allow
substantial drainage to occur, compared with soil or sand alone.